Bonsai Secrets "Style" Part 2

"Bonsai Gardening Secret"

Cascade (Kengai)

If you were to look at Bonsai growing wild in Japan or China, you would see that those growing on steep cliffs bend downwards because of falling rocks, the weight of snow, and other factors. However, to maintain this downward growing pattern with Bonsai is very challenging since this goes against the tree’s natural tendencies.

This style of Bonsai should be planted in a tall container. It will grow upright for a little distance but then start to bend downwards. The tree’s crown will typically grow over the rim of the pot although subsequent branches, alternating from the left side of the pot will come out of the trunk that is shaped like an “S”. Just remember that to maintain the balance of the tree, the alternating branches need to grow out horizontally.

• The trunk is tapered, growing below the container. This creates the impression of the tree being held down by gravity.
• The trunk generally twists, emulating a winding pathway or stream. From this, branches protrude, creating an elegant look.
• You will need a narrow pot to help with the Cascade style, along with the right species of plant
• The trunk’s main portion will need to be wired so it spills down over the edge of the pot. This will then create a focal point on the primary bend, making an upside “U” shape.
• You will need to keep the branches uniform and horizontal, keeping them to the vertical trunk
• The tree should be positioned to the center of the pot, which is actually different from most other styles.

Semi-Cascade (Han-Kengai)

Although similar to the Cascade Style, you would generally find this style in nature, growing on a cliff or on the bank of lakes and rivers. The tree trunk will grow upright for a little ways and then bend down. The one difference between this style and the Cascade Style is that the trunk will never grow lower than the bottom of the pot. Additionally, the crown is generally above the pot’s rib with subsequent branching occurring below the rim.

• Very similar to the Cascade style, with these principles, you would notallow the growing tip of the tree to drop lower than the base of the pot. In fact, many Semi-Cascade trees will not drop below the edge of the top of the pot.

Windswept Style (Fukinagashi)

This style is much as it sounds in that the branches andthe trunk will grow to one side, appearing as though the wind was constantly blowing in one direction. As the branches go to one side, the tree trunk will soon begin to bend in that same direction.


Double Trunk Style (Sokan)
This particular style is one that you would commonly see in nature, but not considered a common choice in the art form of Bonsai. Typically, both tree trunks grow from one root system
although sometimes, a smaller trunk might grow from a larger trunk just above ground level.

These two trunks will generally vary in size, thickness, and length, with the thicker and more developed of the two growing almost upright and the smaller, less developed trunk slanting a bit. Regardless, both of the trunks work together to form a single crown of leaves.


Multi-Trunk Style (Kabudachi)

Very similar to a double trunk Bonsai style, the Multi-Trunk Style has three or more trunks. In addition, like the two-trunkstyle, all three or more trunks grow from one root system. The trunks all contribute to a single crown of leaves, with the thickest and most developed of the trunks forming the top.



Forest Style (Yose-Ue)
With the Forest Style, you would find it very similar to the Multi-Trunk Style. However, there is a difference in that his style is actually comprised of several trees. In this case, the tree that is the most developed is planted in the middle of a very large, but shallow pot.

Then on either side, two or more smaller trees are planted. The key here is that you do not want to plant the trees in a straight line but stagger them. This way, the Bonsai looks more as it would in its natural environment.


Roots over a Rock Style (Joju)
When trees grow in rocky terrain, they have to search for soil by using the roots, digging down into the holes and cracks where the best soil is usually found. Since the root sare unprotected and exposed, prior to reaching the ground they have to find a way of finding protection from the sun, which is done as bark grows around them.

When growing Bonsai with this style, the roots would grow over a rock that has been added to the pot. Although it might seem like it, training and maintaining this style is actually no harder or different from any other.


Growing in a Bed Style (Ishisuki)
With this style, the tree grows up in between the holes and cracks of a rock, meaning the roots have little room to develop and absorb needed nutrients. In nature, typically trees that grow amongst rocks do not do well, meaning they have to struggle to survive.

Therefore, if you choose this style of Bonsai, you will need to be sure to fertilize and water often. Additionally, you would need to place a rock in a shallow dish within the pot, and fill it with water or fine stones.


Raft Style (Ikadabuki)
When a tree cracks, it can sometimes survive by pointing itshealthy branches upward. This allows the old root system to provide those branches with enough nutrients to survive and grow. Eventually, new roots will begin to grow out of the side of the broken tree, and then soon consume the function of the old root system.

Then, the old branches that are pointing upward will develop because of the higher level of nutrients. The result is what is known as the Raft System. This style is similar to the Yose-Ue and Ikadabuki Styles in that the new trunks emerging are visible from the old, broken trunk.


Driftwood Style (Sharimiki)
Over time, certain trees will become bald or no longer have places of bark on the trunks, generally because of harsh weather. This portion of the trunk will start where the rooms emerge from the ground and then become increasingly thinner, as it travels upward on the trunk.

The exposed areas then become bleached by the sun, which now forms a new characteristic on the tree. With Bonsai, a sharp knife is used to remove the bark and as a way of speeding up the bleaching process, calcium sulfate is used.

Style Species

Within each of these styles, certain trees do better than other trees. To give you an idea of which species work best with the various styles, we have provided a guideline below:

Upright Style
• Juniper
• Larch
• Maple (not as easy to train)
• Pine
• Spruce

Upright Style
• Beech
• Conifer
• Cotoneaster
• Crab Apple
• Japanese Maple
• Pomegranate
• Trident Maple

Slanting Style
• Conifers
• Most species are suitable for the Slanting Style

Cascade Style
• Most species are suitable for the Cascade Style

Semi-Cascade Style
• Cherry
• Cedar
• Juniper

Bonsai Secrets "Style" Part 1

BONSAI STYLES

Within the two basic style categories, there are many specific styles, as you will see below. You will also see some examples for the most popular styles, giving important growing information.


Broom Style (Hokidachi)
With the Broom style, the tree trunk is straight and upright, not continuing up to the top of the tree. The branches of this style will go out in all directions, going one-third the wayup the height of the tree. With this, the branches and leaves begin to form a crown in the shape of a ball, which is a nice look during the winter. This style is best suited for deciduous treesthat have heavy branching.

Formal Upright Style (Chokkan)
This style is quite common, occurring most often in nature when the Bonsai is exposed to significant light and when not competing with other trees. The tree trunk must betapered and visible. Typically, the trunk would be much thicker at the bottom while growing increasingly thinner with the height.

The branching for this style should begin about one-quarter up the length of the trunk and then the top of the tree there should be a single branch formed. Finally, the trunk should never span the entire height of the tree.

• First branch up from the bottom will need to be the longest. Additionally, it needs to be in proportion and trained to grow one-third of the tree’s total height. This branch is the heaviest of the branches, making a slight right angle.
• Second branch will grow opposite the first branch and slightly higher on the trunk. As this branch ascends, it will taper off, creating a cone-like form.
• The top portion of the Bonsai consists of thick foliage. In fact, it is often so thick that it is tightly ramified and hard to see the internal structure because of the needles and/or leaves.
• For this style, the tip has a slight curve, leaning forward. Depending on the tree that you have chosen for your Bonsai, it does not have to be symmetrical. Instead, the branches could ascend, simply by alternating them on either side.
• The taper is very distinctive with this style, usually achieved by cruelly cutting off the growing tip of either branch or trunk. Then, the new branch is wired into the correct position to help form the apex. Although hard to do, the results are stunning.

Informal Upright Style (Moyogi)

With this style, you will find them most common in both nature and in the art of Bonsai. The Moyogi style has a trunk that grows upright, creating an “S” shape. Additionally, wherever there is a turn, there is branching. For this style, the trunk must be visible, and the trunk’s base should be thicker at the base than at the top portions.

To accomplish the Upright style, you will need to make sure one-third of the trunk can be seen from the front, from the base to the first branch of cumulatively through tracery of branches. In most cases, the branches would be in a specific pattern, such as this below:

• This process is very similar to the upright except it is more informal
• The trunk is tapered but the branch positioning and trunk direction are closer and more informal to the way in which the tree would be when first exposed to the elements
• Typically, the trunk will have an unexpected curve or several twists. The branches are then positioned as a way of balancing this effect.
• The tree’s crown is extremely full, covered with dense foliage
• Although the trunk is informal, the crown is always located directly above the tree’s base
• Jin, which is the carved remains of unwanted or dead branches so they look dead or rotten, they are effective and appropriate for this style.

Slanting / Leaning Style (Shakkan)
If you have other plants, you have probably noticed that the side that faces the sun will cause the branches to lean in that direction. With this style, you would train the Bonsai to slant/lean but for it to be in the true training practice, the angle must be between 60 to 80 degrees, relative to the ground.

With this style, the roots would be well developed on one side, as ameans of keeping the tree standing. On the side that leans, you would notice that the roots are not nearly as developed. The first branch of the Bonsai would be growing opposite of the direction in which the tree is leaning, as a way of creating balance. Then, the tree trunk should be just slightly bent, or you could choose to keep it straight but remember, it must be thicker at the bottom.

• Although similar to the Informal Upright, this style has a trunk that can be straight or curved. Regardless, it has to be on an angle going to the right or left, and never to the front.
• The apex should never be directly over the base of the Bonsai.
• This simple style can be achieved by wiring the trunk into position or .trained to an angle
• The tree for this style can be forced to grow slanted, simply by putting the pot on a slant
• The number three is relative to this style. For example, the low branches should be grouped in threes, starting one-third up the trunk. Then, the bottom three branches would encircle the trunk, with two of the branches going upward with one just a little higher. The third branch, which emanates between the first two branches, is placed at an angle, which helps the foliate appear lower than the other two. With this pattern, you can tell front from back and set the composition’s tone.

Bonsai Secrets "All About Style"

With Bonsai, remember that it is all about the elements of design – Symmetry, Balance, and Proportion. To train and style your Bonsai, you will need to work with each of these elements.

• Symmetry – This means the repetition of the same shape, with the basic optionfor Bonsai being triangular. This particular shape is very important in oriental philosophy, being Heaven, Man, and Earth. When looking at the Bonsai, the triangular shape can be seen in its overall silhouette and branches regardless of the viewpoint.
• Balance – This element is sometimes perceived as symmetrical but by using an asymmetrical approach, a more aesthetically pleasing appearance of the mass and void can be achieved.
• Proportion – This is the ratio of the individual parts of the Bonsai, which also includes the pot in which it is planted and its overall design.

FORM OF WORK

When we refer to the word “style” or “styling”, it means to form the shape of the Bonsai. As you will see from the information provided in this chapter, you can style your Bonsai in a number of ways, depending on the type of tree you are working with and the style you prefer.

The style you choose will coordinate directly with the method of training, as well as the materials you use for the training. Interestingly, just as clothing trends go in and out, so do the styles of the Bonsai. Over the past several hundred years, many different styles have been popular, each fading in and out. Currently, the style that is preferred in the west is the Pine Tree look.

Although Bonsai should be representative of where you live, for instance, Japanese would choose Japanese styles and Americans would choose American styles, and so on, since Bonsai is a subjective form of art, feel free to experiment with various options. The key is to make choices that will capture the essence of the beauty seen in the native tree used.

When choosing your style, keep in mind that Bonsai is not a mystery, but more of a challenge. After all, you are taking a tree and putting it into a pot while training it to be a miniature tree, which requires seasonal trimming along with new growth and occasional root pruning. Therefore, when working with your preferred style, you need to be patient and consistent with your training, knowing that the result will be an amazing Bonsai that you trained!


PRINCIPLES OF STYLE
As you will see in this chapter, you have many wonderful styles from which to choose but first, you need to understand that there are two basic styles. The first is a classic style called “Koten” and the other is an informal or comic style called “Bunjin.”

With the first style, you will find that the tree trunk is wider at the base, tapering toward the top while the second style consists of a tapered tree trunk that then becomes wider at the top. Of the two styles, the Bunjin style is the most difficult one to master.

For years, many Bonsai enthusiasts have tried a number of ways to have these styles reclassified, as well as create subdivisions for the plants being trained. However, the basics stand, offering you a reference point with which to assess the potential of the tree so you can then choose the best style.

One of the most important things you need to do when choosing the style is to study the way in which the tree grows naturally. Just like the old saying, “You can’t teach an old dog new tricks”, trying to train a tree against its nature is extremely difficult and will only cause you to become frustrated while you end up with a poor looking Bonsai.

Another important thing to remember is that the Bonsai is a living thing. Therefore, you should study its characteristics so you understand your tree. As an example, Conifers do not do well with the Broom style but are exceptional with all other styles. As you learn these principles of Bonsai, you will soon be able to take any Bonsai tree and train it into a magnificent miniature work of art.