Bonsai Feeding
A strong and
healthy Bonsai needs to be fed on a regular basis. The key here is feeding the tree at the right time, and using the right fertilizer. The goal of the fertilizer is to replenish minerals and nutrients that can be washed away naturally during rain or when the Bonsai is watered.
Although fertilizer is available in a multitude of forms, one that many people like is the pellets. The benefit is that this type of fertilizer is slow releasing, so the Bonsai is fed over a period of weeks, safely. Another option, although not aspopular with Bonsai growers is the soluble powder and liquid.
These food types work very well and fast but work over a shorter amount of time. To use the powder or liquid, you would mix them with water according to the directions and then sprinkler over the Bonsai.
Bonsai Pruning
As mentioned in other sections, to maintain the shape of your Bonsai and refine new growth, pruning is crucial. In fact, with proper pruning, you will actually encourage new growth. Some
plants used for Bonsai respond very well to pruning naturally, while others simply do not recover no matter what you do. The most important thing to remember when pruning is that you need to know the type of tree you are dealing with. Otherwise, you could actually damage the tree.
The best time to prune depends if growth is new or old. For instance, new growth should be pruned during the growing season, which will help maintain the shape. On the other hand, old growth should be pruned during mid-fall. As you will see below, there are several different ways to prune Bonsai.
Finger Pruning
This method of pruning is very popular, working exceptionally well for cedars and junipers. To finger prune your Bonsai, you would pinch backany new growth, making sure it does not interfere with the overall shape of the Bonsai, or at the top where bush foliage would be encouraged.
To accomplish the pruning, you want to hold then new growth between your forefinger and thumb and then with the branch being held in the other hand, twist. The reason this method is better than using scissors isthat the leaves and foliage do not turn brown and they look more natural.
Keep in mind that if you have a cotoneaster, Chinese elm, or maple, then you would want to use scissors. If you have aggressive growth, then you want to trim back the shoots, just after the next series of leaves. In this case, the foliage would not be cut back as much.
Leaf Pruning
This method is also known as defoliation when used for Bonsai, and is the best option when growing maples or Ficus. The goal with leaf pruning is to remove leaves that are unsightly, as well as to speed the growth up. With leaf pruning, it would be done in mid-summer. Approximately 70% to 90% of the leaves are removed, keeping just enough so the tree
maintains its energy.
The key is to use fine scissors for removing the leaves, cutting them just behind the leaf. The important thing with leaf pruning is that in about two weeks, you need to make sure the plants are comfortable in their environment, are in a friendly position, have good fertilizer, and are properly watered. The important thing to remember with leaf pruning is that only certain Bonsai plants would use this method.
Wiring
To achieve the desired Bonsai shape, not all plants need to be wired. Take the Fukien Tea plant, which can be trained easily and without the use of wire. However, many other plant
species need this added support and encouragement to grow the right way.
One misconception about wiring Bonsai is that it is done to keep the plant small. In truth, wiring is simply a means of holding the branches in the position you want so the tree will train to a specific shape. If you do use wire, make sure you check it carefully so that the tree does not sustain any damage.
The goal when wiring the Bonsai is to copy the natural curves. The branches you want to wire are those that will likely break under pressure. In this case, the wire would be twisted around the branch for training purpose. As you shop for wiring, you will discover two types – aluminum and copper. Both are inexpensive, easy to find, and look fine. However, the copper option is a little more difficult to work with, especially if you have never done this before.
It is crucial that you take your time and do the wiring properly because if done wrong, the Bonsai can be damaged beyond repair. You will also find both aluminum and copper wiring in various densities, depending on the size of branch you need to train and how stubborn the tree species.
Your best bet is to purchase the wire in a number of lengths so you can determine which is best for your Bonsai. Remember, if you mess up, you can always remove the wire and start again. To give you an idea of what you would buy, if you are training very thin branches, 3.5-gauge wire would be perfect.
The best and safest way to wire your Bonsai is to clench the branches with both hands, and then slowly and carefully, apply the wire, wrapping it around the branches. Be very careful during this process to make sure the trunk does not experience any damage. The easiest way is to wire the branch first, bending it in the desired shape.
To ensure the branch does not become re-trained, anchor the wire for security. All you need to do is dig down into the soil, placing the wire going up the trunk so it reaches the branch that you want to train. On occasion, using the larger gauge wire is difficult. To get past this, you can use a thinner gauge wire and double it.
The day before wiring your Bonsai, you want to avoid watering the plant. Additionally, the Bonsai will do much better if you keep it in shade for approximately two to three weeks after you have finished wiring it. Then to ensure the bark is not being cut into, you want to check the Bonsai every day for several weeks.
In fact, during the spring and summer, the risk of damage is increased. Sadly, when damage does occur, it is often irreversible. Depending on the degree of damage, it can take years to grow out. If you plan to use any type of deciduoustree for your Bonsai, remember that they are highly susceptible to wire damage. The reason is that this type of tree has many fast growth spurts.
Therefore, while the wire might be fine the first week, chances are it could be dangerous the second week.
Bonsai Gardening Secrets
A strong and
healthy Bonsai needs to be fed on a regular basis. The key here is feeding the tree at the right time, and using the right fertilizer. The goal of the fertilizer is to replenish minerals and nutrients that can be washed away naturally during rain or when the Bonsai is watered. Although fertilizer is available in a multitude of forms, one that many people like is the pellets. The benefit is that this type of fertilizer is slow releasing, so the Bonsai is fed over a period of weeks, safely. Another option, although not aspopular with Bonsai growers is the soluble powder and liquid.
These food types work very well and fast but work over a shorter amount of time. To use the powder or liquid, you would mix them with water according to the directions and then sprinkler over the Bonsai.
Bonsai Pruning
As mentioned in other sections, to maintain the shape of your Bonsai and refine new growth, pruning is crucial. In fact, with proper pruning, you will actually encourage new growth. Some
plants used for Bonsai respond very well to pruning naturally, while others simply do not recover no matter what you do. The most important thing to remember when pruning is that you need to know the type of tree you are dealing with. Otherwise, you could actually damage the tree.
The best time to prune depends if growth is new or old. For instance, new growth should be pruned during the growing season, which will help maintain the shape. On the other hand, old growth should be pruned during mid-fall. As you will see below, there are several different ways to prune Bonsai.
Finger Pruning
This method of pruning is very popular, working exceptionally well for cedars and junipers. To finger prune your Bonsai, you would pinch backany new growth, making sure it does not interfere with the overall shape of the Bonsai, or at the top where bush foliage would be encouraged.
To accomplish the pruning, you want to hold then new growth between your forefinger and thumb and then with the branch being held in the other hand, twist. The reason this method is better than using scissors isthat the leaves and foliage do not turn brown and they look more natural.
Keep in mind that if you have a cotoneaster, Chinese elm, or maple, then you would want to use scissors. If you have aggressive growth, then you want to trim back the shoots, just after the next series of leaves. In this case, the foliage would not be cut back as much.
Leaf Pruning
This method is also known as defoliation when used for Bonsai, and is the best option when growing maples or Ficus. The goal with leaf pruning is to remove leaves that are unsightly, as well as to speed the growth up. With leaf pruning, it would be done in mid-summer. Approximately 70% to 90% of the leaves are removed, keeping just enough so the tree
maintains its energy.
The key is to use fine scissors for removing the leaves, cutting them just behind the leaf. The important thing with leaf pruning is that in about two weeks, you need to make sure the plants are comfortable in their environment, are in a friendly position, have good fertilizer, and are properly watered. The important thing to remember with leaf pruning is that only certain Bonsai plants would use this method.
Wiring
To achieve the desired Bonsai shape, not all plants need to be wired. Take the Fukien Tea plant, which can be trained easily and without the use of wire. However, many other plant species need this added support and encouragement to grow the right way.
One misconception about wiring Bonsai is that it is done to keep the plant small. In truth, wiring is simply a means of holding the branches in the position you want so the tree will train to a specific shape. If you do use wire, make sure you check it carefully so that the tree does not sustain any damage.
The goal when wiring the Bonsai is to copy the natural curves. The branches you want to wire are those that will likely break under pressure. In this case, the wire would be twisted around the branch for training purpose. As you shop for wiring, you will discover two types – aluminum and copper. Both are inexpensive, easy to find, and look fine. However, the copper option is a little more difficult to work with, especially if you have never done this before.
It is crucial that you take your time and do the wiring properly because if done wrong, the Bonsai can be damaged beyond repair. You will also find both aluminum and copper wiring in various densities, depending on the size of branch you need to train and how stubborn the tree species.
Your best bet is to purchase the wire in a number of lengths so you can determine which is best for your Bonsai. Remember, if you mess up, you can always remove the wire and start again. To give you an idea of what you would buy, if you are training very thin branches, 3.5-gauge wire would be perfect.
The best and safest way to wire your Bonsai is to clench the branches with both hands, and then slowly and carefully, apply the wire, wrapping it around the branches. Be very careful during this process to make sure the trunk does not experience any damage. The easiest way is to wire the branch first, bending it in the desired shape.
To ensure the branch does not become re-trained, anchor the wire for security. All you need to do is dig down into the soil, placing the wire going up the trunk so it reaches the branch that you want to train. On occasion, using the larger gauge wire is difficult. To get past this, you can use a thinner gauge wire and double it.
The day before wiring your Bonsai, you want to avoid watering the plant. Additionally, the Bonsai will do much better if you keep it in shade for approximately two to three weeks after you have finished wiring it. Then to ensure the bark is not being cut into, you want to check the Bonsai every day for several weeks.
In fact, during the spring and summer, the risk of damage is increased. Sadly, when damage does occur, it is often irreversible. Depending on the degree of damage, it can take years to grow out. If you plan to use any type of deciduoustree for your Bonsai, remember that they are highly susceptible to wire damage. The reason is that this type of tree has many fast growth spurts.
Therefore, while the wire might be fine the first week, chances are it could be dangerous the second week.
Bonsai Gardening Secrets
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