Training Techniques "Bonsai Gardening" Part 3

"Bonsai Gardening Secret"

Defoliation

In the summertime, there are some trees used for Bonsai that need to be defoliated, which means removing a large portion or all of the leaves to help the tree produce new ones. This is typically done for a number of reasons. First, it will help stop certain branches from growing and second, it will help the tree produce more branches as well as leaves.

This particular method should only be done if your Bonsai is healthy. Otherwise, part or all of it will die. While there is no set schedule for defoliating your Bonsai, you want to remove the leaves as soon as you see new buds appear. You can usually tell when the tree needs to be defoliated in that one branch will developer faster or slower than the rest
on the tree.

Jin and Shari
These two methods help make the Bonsai appear older and is generally used to enhance the tree’s natural appearance and character. The word Jin means, “baring and bleaching a branch” and Shari means, “baring and bleaching a part of the trunk.”

The process is where the tree’s bark is completely removed to help give the tree a more rugged appearance and best done in the summertime, which is the same for both Jin and Shari. Start by choosing your branch, making sure it is as thick as a pencil or larger. Then remove the bark with a flat knife, often referred to as a “Jin knife.” Next, use a Jin Fluid, which
will fasten the bleach to the tree.

For the Shari portion of the method, you will remove the trunk’s bark, which helps create a little drama. Starting at the ground surface, you want the bare part of the trunk to become smaller, as it moves higher up. Make sure too much bark is not removed at once in that this could cause all or a part of the tree to die.

If you need to mark the area on the trunk where you want to remove the bark, you can use a piece of white chalk. Then with a sharp, flat knife, carefully begin pulling the bark off. Once this is complete, you can take he concave cutter to hollow the trunk slightly to give it the aged and natural look. Then, again use the Jin Fluid to apply the bleach.


ROCK PLANTING
In nature, it is quite common to see rocks growing in and amongst rocks, particularly, Pine trees. Bonsai trees can also be planted with rocks but keep in mind that with little space for the development of a root system, you need to make sure the plant or tree receives adequate water and fertilization.

To grow your Bonsai in rocks, you will need to find rocks that have cracks and/or holes. This will allow the roots to grow into the rock. The best method is to grow the plant/tree in a large container before you plant it in the rocks. This way, the roots will be developed and healthy. For the tree, you can choose just about any tree for this type of planning but typically, the Pine tree is favored.


GROUP PLANTING
When growing Bonsai, group planting is very common. With thisoption, you would have groups of plants/trees, which helps to provide asymmetry. Keep in mind that instead of planting thingsneatly in a row they should be planted randomly, representing nature. You can place group plantings on a slate or in a shallow pot, whichever you prefer. Just be sure your choice provides the Bonsai with proper drainage. For instance, the slate will generally not have any drainage holes so you would need to first drill them.

Both Pine and Deciduous trees can be used for group planning. However, if you prefer, you can plant both types together. The important thing is that the trees are healthy since a good root system will be needed. Be sure you keep the group planting to odd numbers, starting usually with five and no more than 15! The spring is the optimum time for group planting, using two parts of akadama, one part of very fine gravel, and one part of garden compost.

Training Techniques "Bonsai Gardening" Part 2

BROOM STYLE FROM MATURE ELM

Elms are excellent choices for the Broom Style Bonsai. They have many of the same characteristics as the trees you would see in nature, which is why they look so realistic in miniature form.

The best option is to start your Broom Style Bonsai from seed, cultivating it with a central leader that is enveloped by many branches coming from the spine. The result of this would be a wonderful dome of shoots. However, if you prefer to create the Broom Style with mature stock,
you can.

You will need to choose a stock that has a round, flawless trunk. One of the problems with coniferous species is that pruning can cause scars when working with the Broom Style. What you want to accomplish with this style are surface roots that are near perfect, being uniform in spacing and size. If the roots are imperfect, you can remake them by ground layering the trunks after the canopy has formed.

For the cut, you want to go across or in a “V” shape. The most important thing is to make sure the cut is clean since new branches will eventually come out of the edges of this wound. Your best option is to slightly hollow out the wound and make sure your cut is three times the trunk’s diameter from the soil.

Now, the upper portion of the trunk will be wrapped with grafting tape, which will help prevent swelling caused by the new shoots. Once these shoots have reached five inches long, you want to choose two to seven for your new branches. Keep in mind that the more shoots you leave, the faster the wound will heat. However, that also means the swelling at the site of the wound will be more pronounced.

Next, you will need to decide on the shoot that you want to be the central leader. Each new season, the branches will need to be cut back at the place where you want new splits to form. For the first few years, the form and shape will occur. Then after that, new shoots will be ramifying. You want to keep the wrapping on the tree for about two years and remember that getting anxious and taking it off sooner will result in the base of the branching to swell.

In the wintertime, you should gather the branches with string to help straighten them, and to keep the thrust in a vertical line, not horizontal. You just want to make sure that your primary branches are not allowed to grow too large or to grow too quickly. You can control this by pinching the shoots around the second year. Patience is needed when working with a mature tree in that it will take several years before you begin to see a beautifully trained Bonsai.


STRETCHING
To bend the branches of your tree, some will need to be stretched. This involves vertically stretching, not wiring. For tree trunks that are thick and old, this is a much safer method of training.

• Start with a small towel or cloth that will be placed between the branch and wire, as a means of protecting the branch
• Then, cut a piece of cupper wire, wrapping it around the end of the branch several times, keeping a piece of the towel or cloth between them Stretch the branch down, attaching it to the pot, or the tree’s trunk
• Just make sure you never stretch the branch too far at once. Then if you want to stretch the branch even further, you should wait one month.

PRUNING
Pruning is also used for training, which can be done to create and maintain the tree’s shape.

Form Pruning
This type of pruning is performed on the larger branches. It helps define the form. Remember, the goal is to make your Bonsai appear old and natural. Therefore, branches that do not work toward this goal would need to be removed. In the spring, which is the best time to prune so your Bonsai will have more buds, perform the pruning. Just be sure you never remove any large branches if the temperatures still have a chance of dipping below zero.

Unfortunately, pruning does put the branch at risk for big, unattractive wounds. For this reason, you should use a concave cutter, which creates a hollow around the wound, which heals much quicker and cleaner. Instead of becoming over eager at pruning, you will typically prune lightly, just enough to help give definition to the main branch structure.

Additionally, any branches that have green leaves or needles should never have more than half removed. The reason is that the wounds on this type of branch require much more of the tree’s energy. To help your Bonsai heal quicker, you can buy a type of paste for the wound that actually works to seal it.

Maintenance Pruning
With this type of pruning, the tree’s primary structure has already been defined. Therefore, you will no longer remove any of the larger branches. However, you will need to keep the smaller branches cut back regularly, which helps maintain the shape of the tree. Unlike form pruning that should only be done in the springtime, maintenance pruning can be done throughout the year.

Plucking
This is a different type of method for pruning your Bonsai. In this case, only pine trees can be plucked while deciduous trees would still need to be pruned. Additionally, with plucking, you can do this anytime throughout the year.

Training Techniques "Bonsai Gardening" Part 1

Now that you have a good idea of the various styles, you will need to learn how to accomplish them. Some of the styles listed in this chapter are basic while others are more advanced. Remember, working with Bonsai is a learning experience and in time, you will be a master! Therefore, if you do not get things exactly right the first time, do not become discouraged. Instead, accept that you need a little more skill and practice.

The information in this chapter will go through some of the more advanced techniques, taking you from the stage of beginner to Bonsai master.


ROOT OVER ROCK STYLE
The “Root over Rock” has been used for many years in Bonsai. This style consists of the plant’s roots being trained to cling to a rock and then spilling over it, eventually disappearing into the soil. The goal of this style is to mimic a tree that grows into a rock crevice, where the roots have to move about to find needed nutrients when the primary source is depleted. Once the roots reach the soil, they will become hard, thus growing back around the rock. The result is that the roots now become as effective asthe actual tree trunk.

In nature, it is common to see a tree start growing onto another tree. In time, that tree will overpower the second tree, strangling it with the roots. To create this style, you will need to choose a suitable rock, one that is attractive, natural, and a good size, but not so large that it overpowers the tress. Then, you need to choose a healthy tree, one with an extensive root system.

Cut off any unsightly foliage and then wash the soil away from the root ball, asbest you can, taking care that the roots are not damaged. Then with your rockand plant, you will place the plant over the rock. You might need to arrange it several times before you find a look that you prefer. It is important that you not place all of the roots to one side since you want your Bonsai to be viewed and enjoyed from any angle. If needed, the underdeveloped roots can be overlapped, helping them merge.

Now, the roots will need to be set into place. The easies and most effective method are to take grafting tape and while holding the roots in place, you will wrap the tape around the rock, making sure it is somewhat tight. The rock will need to be covered completely with the exception of the bottom so that the rootscan protrude into the soil. Additionally, make sure the roots have no gaps where they could escape into the tape.

When done, ensure the roots all protrude from the bottom of the rock. Then, you will bury the rock along with the plant in a pot of clean sand. The goal is to plant it so the rock is not visible but the bottom portion of the trunk is. The Bonsai will need to be watered and then left in this pot for up to two years.

Over time, the roots will thicken and become strong. When the time comes to remove the pot, you will scrape the soil away, and wash it so the rock and root ball are exposed. You will need to be very careful with these new roots, as they will not tolerate too much stress.

Next, using a pair of sharp scissors, remove the grafting tape, making sure you do not cut into the roots. Once that is complete, you will pot the tree in a plasticpot so that the rock is positioned above the surface, leaving it for about three months to help it rejuvenate. Finally, plant your Bonsai in a ceramic pot so it can be displayed and enjoyed.

Now keep in mind that when you pot your Bonsai in the ceramic pot, it will not look much like a Bonsai. Instead, you will see a busy tree that seems out of proportion. To encourage a tapered trunk and to refine the branches, you will need to prune the tree. Then in about six months, the tree will again be cut backto re-establish its shape. In all, you will be pruning and reshaping for about two years before you have the perfect Bonsai.

With the “Root over Rock” style, you will have an appealing and aesthetically pleasing Bonsai. This style is advanced so just be patient and with a little time and practice you will achieve your goal.


ROOT TRUNK
This process helps the Bonsai appear natural. Here, the roots are visible, being just above the ground’s surface. To create this look, you would need to use root pruning along with several other methods.

In this case, the roots would have to be pruned on a regular basis. Before you begin forming this Bonsai, you will need to determine first the side of the tree that will be viewed. Then, the branch structure, trunk, and root trunk will all need to be decided. Additionally, every time you repot the tree, the vertical roots will need to be removed to help the tree start growing additionally horizontal growing roots.

The other method consists of using a tourniquet, which is safe and produceswonderful results. In this case, a wire would be wrapped around the trunk at the location where the new roots are to grow. Then, allow the tree to grow for one full year without any pruning. At the six-month point, slowly wire to cut off nutrients, which will help make the trunk thicker. At that point, the old root system can be removed, making room for the new roots.


TRUNK CHOPPING POTENSAI
The process of trunk chopping actually serves two purposes. The first is to help reduce the tree’s height and second, to induce trunk taper. For this process, rather than bend the branches up, you want to make an exaggerated concave cut into the trunk just below the branch, and behind the trunk.

The reason for this is that it will help position the new leader above the center of the trunk where it should be. Additionally, this will help maintain the integrity of the formal upright style. Once the trunk hashealed from the cut, it will be straight and have a wonderful taper shape.


FLAT-BOTTOMED FIGS
With figs, they will grow from seeds in about 8 to 12 months. Typically, the base will have the shape of an onion with the roots protruding from the bottom. If you want to achieve quick results with figs, you will need to cut off the base at its widest point. Within a few months, you will notice the roots are much wider and healthier.

Then in about six months, you will need to prune the tree, making sure the roots are not growing downward. At that point, you will plant the tree in a four-inch pot, leaving it for six months. The result will be a flat-bottomed tree.


NATURAL DEADWOOD EFFECT
This effect is called “Jin” or “Shari”, which adds an effective feature to the design, making trees look, very realistic. For instance, in nature, Jin on trees is created when the branches break from strong winds, lightening, or heavy snow. When you style a Bonsai, the branches do not have to be a part of the foliage mass. Instead, they can be used to create Jin, which on Bonsai shows the age of the tree and the struggles that tree had to endure to survive.

This style is definitely advanced in that you need to make the Jin look natural for this to be considered a success. To create Jin, you would carve the tree using hand tools. The wood is torn away, as a means of mimicking a broken branch as it is pulled away from some type of natural occurrence. Many times, if the tree has two trunks, one would be cut away, again, to create an old, dead stump look. After a couple of months, the second trunk will begin to dry out.

To accomplish Jin, you need to remove any bark and soft tissue on the portion of the wood that you will Jin. You will then work only on the portion of the stump that is above the soil level. Any other work will be done in the future after you have repotted the tree.

The slithers are pulled away from the first stump and then the top of the wood is notched or crushed with pliers. Then, you would pull each of the segments away from the stump, using Jin pliers. Remember as you pull the strips of wood away that you are careful not to damage the live wood located at the sides and base.

For the second stump, you would pull the wood and tissue away, revealing the tree’s natural shape. Once the second stump is complete, the Jin will begin to take shape. At this time, smaller and smaller strips of grain are pulled down the length of the stump, which gives the wood a wonderful texture.

Since the wood of the tree is fibrous, you will begin to see pulls and small burrs. To manage these, you can gently burn the surface of the wood. Now, the stump is carefully scorched using a naked flame. Keep in mind that the rest of the tree must be protected during this process, especially the foliage. By placing a piece of hardboard in between the stump that will be scorched and the rest of the tree, you will keep the flames from causing damage.

If any part of the wood becomes black, you would remove this by smoothing and using a process called lime sulphuring. Additionally, if any tool marks are seen, you can take a piece of fine sandpaper to sand them down. Then, any sharp edges of the stump are rounded off, again to replicate the appearance of nature.

Finally, you would again use the lime sulphuring process to whiten the Jin, and to keep it from rotting. To give an illusion of depth, you can add black ink to the lime sulphur in the future to paint recesses.