Training Techniques "Bonsai Gardening" Part 1

Now that you have a good idea of the various styles, you will need to learn how to accomplish them. Some of the styles listed in this chapter are basic while others are more advanced. Remember, working with Bonsai is a learning experience and in time, you will be a master! Therefore, if you do not get things exactly right the first time, do not become discouraged. Instead, accept that you need a little more skill and practice.

The information in this chapter will go through some of the more advanced techniques, taking you from the stage of beginner to Bonsai master.


ROOT OVER ROCK STYLE
The “Root over Rock” has been used for many years in Bonsai. This style consists of the plant’s roots being trained to cling to a rock and then spilling over it, eventually disappearing into the soil. The goal of this style is to mimic a tree that grows into a rock crevice, where the roots have to move about to find needed nutrients when the primary source is depleted. Once the roots reach the soil, they will become hard, thus growing back around the rock. The result is that the roots now become as effective asthe actual tree trunk.

In nature, it is common to see a tree start growing onto another tree. In time, that tree will overpower the second tree, strangling it with the roots. To create this style, you will need to choose a suitable rock, one that is attractive, natural, and a good size, but not so large that it overpowers the tress. Then, you need to choose a healthy tree, one with an extensive root system.

Cut off any unsightly foliage and then wash the soil away from the root ball, asbest you can, taking care that the roots are not damaged. Then with your rockand plant, you will place the plant over the rock. You might need to arrange it several times before you find a look that you prefer. It is important that you not place all of the roots to one side since you want your Bonsai to be viewed and enjoyed from any angle. If needed, the underdeveloped roots can be overlapped, helping them merge.

Now, the roots will need to be set into place. The easies and most effective method are to take grafting tape and while holding the roots in place, you will wrap the tape around the rock, making sure it is somewhat tight. The rock will need to be covered completely with the exception of the bottom so that the rootscan protrude into the soil. Additionally, make sure the roots have no gaps where they could escape into the tape.

When done, ensure the roots all protrude from the bottom of the rock. Then, you will bury the rock along with the plant in a pot of clean sand. The goal is to plant it so the rock is not visible but the bottom portion of the trunk is. The Bonsai will need to be watered and then left in this pot for up to two years.

Over time, the roots will thicken and become strong. When the time comes to remove the pot, you will scrape the soil away, and wash it so the rock and root ball are exposed. You will need to be very careful with these new roots, as they will not tolerate too much stress.

Next, using a pair of sharp scissors, remove the grafting tape, making sure you do not cut into the roots. Once that is complete, you will pot the tree in a plasticpot so that the rock is positioned above the surface, leaving it for about three months to help it rejuvenate. Finally, plant your Bonsai in a ceramic pot so it can be displayed and enjoyed.

Now keep in mind that when you pot your Bonsai in the ceramic pot, it will not look much like a Bonsai. Instead, you will see a busy tree that seems out of proportion. To encourage a tapered trunk and to refine the branches, you will need to prune the tree. Then in about six months, the tree will again be cut backto re-establish its shape. In all, you will be pruning and reshaping for about two years before you have the perfect Bonsai.

With the “Root over Rock” style, you will have an appealing and aesthetically pleasing Bonsai. This style is advanced so just be patient and with a little time and practice you will achieve your goal.


ROOT TRUNK
This process helps the Bonsai appear natural. Here, the roots are visible, being just above the ground’s surface. To create this look, you would need to use root pruning along with several other methods.

In this case, the roots would have to be pruned on a regular basis. Before you begin forming this Bonsai, you will need to determine first the side of the tree that will be viewed. Then, the branch structure, trunk, and root trunk will all need to be decided. Additionally, every time you repot the tree, the vertical roots will need to be removed to help the tree start growing additionally horizontal growing roots.

The other method consists of using a tourniquet, which is safe and produceswonderful results. In this case, a wire would be wrapped around the trunk at the location where the new roots are to grow. Then, allow the tree to grow for one full year without any pruning. At the six-month point, slowly wire to cut off nutrients, which will help make the trunk thicker. At that point, the old root system can be removed, making room for the new roots.


TRUNK CHOPPING POTENSAI
The process of trunk chopping actually serves two purposes. The first is to help reduce the tree’s height and second, to induce trunk taper. For this process, rather than bend the branches up, you want to make an exaggerated concave cut into the trunk just below the branch, and behind the trunk.

The reason for this is that it will help position the new leader above the center of the trunk where it should be. Additionally, this will help maintain the integrity of the formal upright style. Once the trunk hashealed from the cut, it will be straight and have a wonderful taper shape.


FLAT-BOTTOMED FIGS
With figs, they will grow from seeds in about 8 to 12 months. Typically, the base will have the shape of an onion with the roots protruding from the bottom. If you want to achieve quick results with figs, you will need to cut off the base at its widest point. Within a few months, you will notice the roots are much wider and healthier.

Then in about six months, you will need to prune the tree, making sure the roots are not growing downward. At that point, you will plant the tree in a four-inch pot, leaving it for six months. The result will be a flat-bottomed tree.


NATURAL DEADWOOD EFFECT
This effect is called “Jin” or “Shari”, which adds an effective feature to the design, making trees look, very realistic. For instance, in nature, Jin on trees is created when the branches break from strong winds, lightening, or heavy snow. When you style a Bonsai, the branches do not have to be a part of the foliage mass. Instead, they can be used to create Jin, which on Bonsai shows the age of the tree and the struggles that tree had to endure to survive.

This style is definitely advanced in that you need to make the Jin look natural for this to be considered a success. To create Jin, you would carve the tree using hand tools. The wood is torn away, as a means of mimicking a broken branch as it is pulled away from some type of natural occurrence. Many times, if the tree has two trunks, one would be cut away, again, to create an old, dead stump look. After a couple of months, the second trunk will begin to dry out.

To accomplish Jin, you need to remove any bark and soft tissue on the portion of the wood that you will Jin. You will then work only on the portion of the stump that is above the soil level. Any other work will be done in the future after you have repotted the tree.

The slithers are pulled away from the first stump and then the top of the wood is notched or crushed with pliers. Then, you would pull each of the segments away from the stump, using Jin pliers. Remember as you pull the strips of wood away that you are careful not to damage the live wood located at the sides and base.

For the second stump, you would pull the wood and tissue away, revealing the tree’s natural shape. Once the second stump is complete, the Jin will begin to take shape. At this time, smaller and smaller strips of grain are pulled down the length of the stump, which gives the wood a wonderful texture.

Since the wood of the tree is fibrous, you will begin to see pulls and small burrs. To manage these, you can gently burn the surface of the wood. Now, the stump is carefully scorched using a naked flame. Keep in mind that the rest of the tree must be protected during this process, especially the foliage. By placing a piece of hardboard in between the stump that will be scorched and the rest of the tree, you will keep the flames from causing damage.

If any part of the wood becomes black, you would remove this by smoothing and using a process called lime sulphuring. Additionally, if any tool marks are seen, you can take a piece of fine sandpaper to sand them down. Then, any sharp edges of the stump are rounded off, again to replicate the appearance of nature.

Finally, you would again use the lime sulphuring process to whiten the Jin, and to keep it from rotting. To give an illusion of depth, you can add black ink to the lime sulphur in the future to paint recesses.