Bonsai Secrets "Style" Part 2

"Bonsai Gardening Secret"

Cascade (Kengai)

If you were to look at Bonsai growing wild in Japan or China, you would see that those growing on steep cliffs bend downwards because of falling rocks, the weight of snow, and other factors. However, to maintain this downward growing pattern with Bonsai is very challenging since this goes against the tree’s natural tendencies.

This style of Bonsai should be planted in a tall container. It will grow upright for a little distance but then start to bend downwards. The tree’s crown will typically grow over the rim of the pot although subsequent branches, alternating from the left side of the pot will come out of the trunk that is shaped like an “S”. Just remember that to maintain the balance of the tree, the alternating branches need to grow out horizontally.

• The trunk is tapered, growing below the container. This creates the impression of the tree being held down by gravity.
• The trunk generally twists, emulating a winding pathway or stream. From this, branches protrude, creating an elegant look.
• You will need a narrow pot to help with the Cascade style, along with the right species of plant
• The trunk’s main portion will need to be wired so it spills down over the edge of the pot. This will then create a focal point on the primary bend, making an upside “U” shape.
• You will need to keep the branches uniform and horizontal, keeping them to the vertical trunk
• The tree should be positioned to the center of the pot, which is actually different from most other styles.

Semi-Cascade (Han-Kengai)

Although similar to the Cascade Style, you would generally find this style in nature, growing on a cliff or on the bank of lakes and rivers. The tree trunk will grow upright for a little ways and then bend down. The one difference between this style and the Cascade Style is that the trunk will never grow lower than the bottom of the pot. Additionally, the crown is generally above the pot’s rib with subsequent branching occurring below the rim.

• Very similar to the Cascade style, with these principles, you would notallow the growing tip of the tree to drop lower than the base of the pot. In fact, many Semi-Cascade trees will not drop below the edge of the top of the pot.

Windswept Style (Fukinagashi)

This style is much as it sounds in that the branches andthe trunk will grow to one side, appearing as though the wind was constantly blowing in one direction. As the branches go to one side, the tree trunk will soon begin to bend in that same direction.


Double Trunk Style (Sokan)
This particular style is one that you would commonly see in nature, but not considered a common choice in the art form of Bonsai. Typically, both tree trunks grow from one root system
although sometimes, a smaller trunk might grow from a larger trunk just above ground level.

These two trunks will generally vary in size, thickness, and length, with the thicker and more developed of the two growing almost upright and the smaller, less developed trunk slanting a bit. Regardless, both of the trunks work together to form a single crown of leaves.


Multi-Trunk Style (Kabudachi)

Very similar to a double trunk Bonsai style, the Multi-Trunk Style has three or more trunks. In addition, like the two-trunkstyle, all three or more trunks grow from one root system. The trunks all contribute to a single crown of leaves, with the thickest and most developed of the trunks forming the top.



Forest Style (Yose-Ue)
With the Forest Style, you would find it very similar to the Multi-Trunk Style. However, there is a difference in that his style is actually comprised of several trees. In this case, the tree that is the most developed is planted in the middle of a very large, but shallow pot.

Then on either side, two or more smaller trees are planted. The key here is that you do not want to plant the trees in a straight line but stagger them. This way, the Bonsai looks more as it would in its natural environment.


Roots over a Rock Style (Joju)
When trees grow in rocky terrain, they have to search for soil by using the roots, digging down into the holes and cracks where the best soil is usually found. Since the root sare unprotected and exposed, prior to reaching the ground they have to find a way of finding protection from the sun, which is done as bark grows around them.

When growing Bonsai with this style, the roots would grow over a rock that has been added to the pot. Although it might seem like it, training and maintaining this style is actually no harder or different from any other.


Growing in a Bed Style (Ishisuki)
With this style, the tree grows up in between the holes and cracks of a rock, meaning the roots have little room to develop and absorb needed nutrients. In nature, typically trees that grow amongst rocks do not do well, meaning they have to struggle to survive.

Therefore, if you choose this style of Bonsai, you will need to be sure to fertilize and water often. Additionally, you would need to place a rock in a shallow dish within the pot, and fill it with water or fine stones.


Raft Style (Ikadabuki)
When a tree cracks, it can sometimes survive by pointing itshealthy branches upward. This allows the old root system to provide those branches with enough nutrients to survive and grow. Eventually, new roots will begin to grow out of the side of the broken tree, and then soon consume the function of the old root system.

Then, the old branches that are pointing upward will develop because of the higher level of nutrients. The result is what is known as the Raft System. This style is similar to the Yose-Ue and Ikadabuki Styles in that the new trunks emerging are visible from the old, broken trunk.


Driftwood Style (Sharimiki)
Over time, certain trees will become bald or no longer have places of bark on the trunks, generally because of harsh weather. This portion of the trunk will start where the rooms emerge from the ground and then become increasingly thinner, as it travels upward on the trunk.

The exposed areas then become bleached by the sun, which now forms a new characteristic on the tree. With Bonsai, a sharp knife is used to remove the bark and as a way of speeding up the bleaching process, calcium sulfate is used.

Style Species

Within each of these styles, certain trees do better than other trees. To give you an idea of which species work best with the various styles, we have provided a guideline below:

Upright Style
• Juniper
• Larch
• Maple (not as easy to train)
• Pine
• Spruce

Upright Style
• Beech
• Conifer
• Cotoneaster
• Crab Apple
• Japanese Maple
• Pomegranate
• Trident Maple

Slanting Style
• Conifers
• Most species are suitable for the Slanting Style

Cascade Style
• Most species are suitable for the Cascade Style

Semi-Cascade Style
• Cherry
• Cedar
• Juniper