Top Bonsai Choices 7

Bonsai Gardening Secrets

Top Bonsai Choices

Wisteria
This type of plant has about 10 species that produce woody, twining, deciduous climbers, great for Bonsai. The leaves, which are good size, will alternate in color from deep green to pinnate. With the leaves being made up of smaller leaves, they are great for a number of Bonsai styles.

Now keep in mind when training a Wisteria that they do not conform to the “normal” Bonsai styling. In other words, they are purposely styled to show off their amazingly fragrant flowers. Therefore, you would choose the style that best suits the species you plan to grow.

The colors are beautiful and include colors of pink, purple, white, and blue. Then the flowers that bloom in the spring have green seedpods. While you can choose whatever species you prefer, the two most popular for Bonsai include the Wisteria Floribunda and the Wisteria Sinensis.

The one drawback to the Wisteria is that when they are planted in the ground, you will need to encourage flowering. First, remember that for Wisteria to bloom, they have to be mature, typically around the age of10. Then, you can prune all the shoots down to within six inches from the trunk. If you do this after flowering and repeat it two to three times in the
fall, you will find that springtime brings more buds.

Feeding the Wisteria is also important in that they need to have fertilizer low in nitrogen. Not only will this help your Bonsai stay healthy, it will also discourage excessive leaf growth while not affecting the flowering.

Care

• Full sun mix with partial shade is best
• The Wisteria will need morel water than many of the plants and trees used for Bonsai growing
• You will need to repot about every third year in the spring
• Style for the flowers, not the overall plant

Concern

• Leaf spot, aphids, and brown scale are common problems

Crabapple
Flowering Crabapples actually make great Bonsai choices. Covered with beautiful foliage and flowers in the spring, they then have miniature green apples in the summer that will actually ripen to many different colors. Additionally, the foliage will turn red, orange, and yellow in the fall, giving this Bonsai brilliant color. Then in the wintertime, the Crabapple will develop amazing fruit and colorful flowers.

While Crabapples do quite well for Bonsai, they do not obtain low grafts as good as other trees. However, if you use root cuttings, you will find it not too difficult. Then try burying the under stock one inch at a time, which can be done by making vertical slices in the bark. Next, apply hormones and cover the area with good soil. Then, you want to try to move the root zone upward. Another option is layering.

Another challenge with under stock suckering is that if the top of the plant is pruned, this under stock will become over stimulated, even more than the scion. The result is a huge explosion in the growth of suckers, which makes the trunks too large and difficult to train.

After training the Crabapple, you will then need to place it in the pot. Just remember that a cutting the size of a pencil will take several years to produce a trunk that is one-inch thick. However, once they are planted, you will find they grow quickly and will need pruning within weeks. When the roots have filled the pot, the leader will need to be cut back to about
three inches. Just be sure you leave a section of close internodes.

If you want unique and radical bends in the trunk, you can create multiple trunk cuts. This creates a soft and interesting look. The process is then repeated, each time adding a few inches of the trunk. You will generally get a little bit of tapering with this but very subtle. However, what you do get is crooked trunks and great growth.

Even though the Crabapple grows quickly, getting a good taper on Crabapples is difficult. Since they always want to develop as cylinders as they get older, the only thing you can try is to reduce the whips to about six inches after they have been allowed to grow wild for two years.

Then, if you throw numerous branches below the cut, going in all directions, the plant will respond quite nicely. This process can be repeated as much as you want. You will find that the multitude of lower branches form into one massive lower trunk. If you prefer, these lower branches can then be removed if they become too large for the Bonsai. Using this method, the Bonsai should develop a six-inch trunk in about four to five years.

Care

• The Crabapple is a ravish eater, and will need to be fed high levels of calcium
• You will want this Bonsai to get as much full sunlight as possible without it becoming scorched during extremely hot days

Concern

• With Crabapples, Crown Gall can be a problem. This parasite will create wart like nodules on the surface roots, as well as the plant’s crown.
• Because this is a fruit tree, you will find that several different types of pests try to enjoy a meal on your Bonsai. Therefore, it is important that you inspect the plant on a regular basis.
• Although you might see powdery mildew, this is generally not a serious problem. If you do get the mildew, it can be treated with an organic fungicide.
• This particular type of tree will suffer from root rot. When this happens, place the tree in a denser soil, which will help reduce the summertime watering requirement.

Bonsai Gardening Secrets

Top Bonsai Choices 6

Bonsai Gardening Secrets

Top Bonsai Choices

Japanese Black Pine
When it comes to the perfect plant for Bonsai, this is it. Elegant, powerful, and distinguished, the Japanese BlackPine is a beautiful specimen. Just remember that for this tree to reach maturity, making the perfect Bonsai, it takes several years. Therefore, you need to be prepared to dedicated time and effort when growing this tree, although the results will be worth it.

Keep in mind that when using the Japanese Black Pine for Bonsai is not necessarily an easy thing. Because of this tree’s growth characteristics, they tend to develop leggy branches, which can show up in whorls from the trunk, which is also leggy.

Each of the branches will produce foliage at the tips, making it appear as a dense lollipop. Since this particular tree is apical dominant, this means the branches at the upper portion will generally receive most of the energy. Because of this, the branches located at the lower portion are generally weak.

You need to make sure the soil is well drained and a 50/50 mixture of pumice and akadama. If the Bonsai is young, then add a little more grit

whereas a mature tree typically likes more akadama. This soil mixture isimportant to help eliminate problems with root rot. Additionally, this specific mixture helps oxygen to reach the roots.

The soil should be kept moist but not overly damp. In fact, the Japanese Black Pine prefers to be a little on the dry side and is known for tolerating slight draughts. Always water evenly and thoroughly. The pH level also needs to range between 5.5 and 6.5. While they can survive outside of this range, they will thrive when in the correct range.

This tree loves sun all day. However, for regions where temperatures reach 100 or more, then the tree will need to be provided with shade during the hottest part of the day. If you notice the leaves turning a yellow/green, then you know it is receiving too much sun.

When compared to other trees used for Bonsai, the Japanese Black Pine is quite limber. The branches can be wired and trained in a number of different shapes, again making this a wonderful option for Bonsai. Typically, this tree should be repotted from December to March, and about every four years.

The Japanese Black Pine needs good surface root structure. With bent wire, you can hold the bowed up roots down. Then with stones or chopsticks, raise and separate the ones needing to be repositioned. Over time, the roots will correct themselves.

Once you have completed the repotting process, you should place the tree in a location with bright shade for about two weeks. Additionally, ensure the soil does not completely dry out and that the tree is protected from harsh winds and temperatures.

Care

• During the spring, you will need to do significant pruning
• In the late fall and winter months, pruning of the branches will help cut back on sap bleeding. Once the branch has been cut off, cut around the edges with a sharp knife since they will not do well with the sap. Then, you want to seal the wound with putty cut paste.
• Removing larger branches in the spring is best, as the larger wounds actually heal faster
• When reducing the Japanese Black Pine, this should be done over a period of years since drastic pruning causes stress and ultimately, damage
• Once the tree has been pruned, make sure it is kept in partial shade and extreme temperatures for four weeks
• If you plan to wire this tree, you want to do it in the winter
• When repotting, you need to take your time so the roots can be rearranged carefully

Concern

• Excessive heat can actually cause the roots of the tree to bake
• This type of tree does not tolerate fertilizer quickly but they do like organics in late spring through early fall, coupled with chelated iron and vitamin supplements
• Wiring the Japanese Black Pine anytime other than late winter will cause the sap to flow, damaging and possibly killing the branch
• Never wire a stressed pine
• Never let a wired pine freeze
• Root removal during repotting is not tolerated very well so be careful with the feeder channels of the trunk while trimming
• Roots feeding into larger, lower branches should not be trimmed much
• Prone to red spider mites, you need to keep your Bonsai healthy and strong, which is when they are attacked most. For the best protection, check your Bonsai every week, looking for any sign of weakness. If you think you see spider mites, you can take a white piece of paper and while holding it underneath one of the leaves, tap the leaf to see if mites fall onto the paper. If so, use a mitacide to eliminate them.
• Mealy bugs and aphids are also common problems but they can be controlled easily with a pesticide

Juniper
This particular conifer is hardy but produces no flowers. However, they are easy to grown, prune, and train, making them a good choice for Bonsai. Because Juniper is responsive, many beginner Bonsai growers will be encouraged with this choice.

Generally, Juniper has long branches that can be trained into amazing styles, with the exception of the Broom. They do well with wiring and reshaping although some cultivars are stiff and more difficult to work with. Additionally, Juniper is very hardy and can be grown indoors or outdoors.

Care

• Pruning should be performed in the spring or fall, never in the summer months
• Maintenance pruning should however be done throughout the year with young shoots being pinched back

Concern

• Because Juniper has prickly needles, you will want to use gloves. These needles can also cause a reason in some people that appears as a red, itchy rash.

Star Magnolia
This is an amazing choice for Bonsai. The Star Magnolia grows slowly and tends to be busy. However, while most Magnolia flowers quickly, this particular species can take up to 30 years! When they do flower, you will have a gorgeous white star-shaped flower that can reach up to five inches in diameter.

This particular Bonsai would need full sun mixed with partial shade. They should be fed every two weeks and then balanced with a quality fertilizer. Starting in August to late fall, you want to make sure the fertilizer is low in nitrogen.

Care

• For pruning, cut back after flowering

Concern

• When repotting, make sure you use soil that is lime and alkaline free. You best option is a neutral to acidic soil.
• Typically, this type of plant is highly resistant to pests and disease. However, if you notice the leaves turning yellow, then it could mean that the soil is too acidic.
• For repotting, this is done best in the spring. Just remember that Magnolias do not like having their roots disturbed. For thisreason, you only want to repot every three years. Then, just one-third of the root ball should be removed.

Bonsai Gardening Secrets

Top Bonsai Choices 5

Bonsai Gardening Secrets

Top Bonsai Choices

Fuchsia
With more than 8,000 hybrids of this one plant, you will find that many of them make great choices for Bonsai. Typically, Fuchsia has larger leaves, which with pruning, can be reduced in size. However, the flowers are also large but cannot be made smaller.

When considering Fuchsia for Bonsai, we would recommend Lady Thumb, Microphylla, or Tom Thumb. However, the most reliable and hardy of the species is the Fuchsia Magellanica. When choosing this plant, you want to avoid any variegated forms since they tend to revert in bad lighting and are among the weaker species.

Typically, you would grow Fuchsia outdoors for most of the year. Most species will handle low temperatures relatively well but once the weather turns too cold, generally lower than 27 degrees, then the leafs will fall off and the branches might die. For this reason, you would do best to keep the Fuchsia indoors during the colder months.

Care

• Fuchsia needs good levels of humidity along with regular misting. However, you want to make sure they are not over watered
• About every two years, you will need to repot this plant, at least for the first 10 years of its life. After that time, you would repot about every four years, using a basic soil mix.
• This plant needs to be pinched weekly in the summertime, which will help slow down the growth of over anxious shoots. Additionally, this will help with ramification and improve the size of the leaves
• Fuchsia produce flowers throughout the year and while you will need to provide some minor pruning, it will not affect the production much
• Any suckers growing from the roots should be removed.
• Because this type of plant buds vigorously, you might consider wiring and doing a little bit of pruning to help train the shape.
• If you want to propagate Fuchsia, you will find it is easy to do. Simply take cuttings during the spring and then again during the late summer months.

Concern

• When wiring young shoots, use care in that they are tender and can be bruised or damaged easily
• Susceptible to aphids, you will need to carefully examine these plants on a regular basis and then use a good, preferably organic insecticide
• If the soil becomes too wet or the plant is not in a place with proper air circulation, they can have problems with mildew. In this case, you would need to spray a fungicide.

Fukien Tea
This particular plant grows much like a shrub and is actually a member of the Southern Chinese evergreen family. Considered an indoor plant and makes a beautiful Bonsai.

The leaves are shiny, oval, and dark green while the trunk is a white or gray color. This contrast makes this a striking appearance. Then, the Fukien Tea grows small, white flowers that have a subtle perfumed fragrance.

If you care for this Bonsai carefully, it will bloom throughout the year. Once the flowers are finished blooming, they will be replaced with small green berries that eventually change to a bright red. The nice thing about this plant is that they are easy to train for Bonsai and seldom need to be wired.

Care

• When growing indoors, you need to place the Fukien Tea in a location where the temperature maintains around 60 degrees. If you do place this plant outdoors, make sure it is placed in a sunny location where it gets a good water supply and good levels of humidity.
• The branches will need to be pruned throughout the year
• New shoots that take away from the shape you are trying to achieve for the Bonsai will need to be pinched
• When trimming new shoots, keep it back to about three leaves on a regular basis during the normal growing season and then about every two to three months during the colder months
• From spring to fall, the Fukien Tea will need to be fed fortnightly and in the winter, make sure the food is low in nitrogen

Concern

• The Fukien Tea is not fond of shady locations. Therefore, it needs to always have as much sun as possible without getting too hot, which could cause the leaves to burn
• This plant does not tolerate cold draughts or frost well

Jade Tree
Native to South Africa, this is a beautiful plant for Bonsai. Considered an indoor plant, they do not do well below 45 degrees. The trunk is nice and thick, with a thick, elliptic leaves that are a beautiful green color. When growing the Jade Tree, you need to make sure it has sufficient light, which causes the leaves to form red edges while white, star-shaped flowers blossom, typically in the fall.

The leaves usually grow to about two inches, although they can be cut back to about one-half inch with regular pruning. For the Bonsai style, you will find the best options to be clump or informal upright.

Care

• Provide as much natural light as possible since poor lighting will cause small leaves and a poor growth rate
• Only light watering is required without the soil drying out in between watering. Typically, you can tell when this plant needs more water in that the leaves will start to have a wrinkled texture.
• Report the Jade Tree about every two to three years, using quality, organic matter. Most Bonsai enthusiasts recommend a mix comprised of 75% inorganic matter, or grit, and 25% organic, or peat compost. This particular mix offers excellent drainage, while holding just enough.
• Feed this tree about once a month from spring to fall
• To help encourage growth on the lower portion of this tree, you will need to pinch new growth consistently
• When wounded, the Jade Tree faithfully creates new growth
• To produce new branches, individual leaves should be removed immediately
• For trunk reduction, the Jade Tree does quite well
• When training with wiring, you will need to set the new position about every three weeks
• Before wiring, make sure you do not water. The reason is that turgid branches snap and mark much easier.
• Propagation is a breeze and can be done at any time during the year

Concern

• When over watered, the Jade Tree develops unhealthy root systems. When this happens, they are no longer capable of supporting the heavy foliage, causing them to become top heavy.
• Be careful when wiring in that the bark is prone to marks. Additionally, if forced to bend too far, the branches will snap off.

Bonsai Gardening Secrets

Top Bonsai Choices 4

Bonsai Gardening Secrets
Top Bonsai Choices

Cotoneaster

If you want a plant that is hardy and easy to grow for Bonsai, the Cotoneaster would be the perfect choice. The leaves and flowers are both quite small and dainty. The nice thing about the Cotoneaster is that you will find a multitude of varieties, including evergreen and deciduous. Additionally, the species grow in a number of forms to include spreading, prostrate, and upright.

During the spring months, you will see shiny green foliage that has very dainty white flowers. Depending on the variety of Cotoneaster you choose, they may also produce small, red berries. The nice thing about growing the Cotoneaster for Bonsai is that they are easy to train and work well with all types of styles such as Root over Rock, Root on Rock, Clump,
Cascade, and Informal Upright.

There are many reasons why the Cotoneaster is a favorite for Bonsai enthusiasts. For one thing, because of the beautiful leaves, flowers, berries, rather than choose a simply pot, you can go all out when it comes to color when potting this plant. Again, you will discover a huge array of
varieties but to grow Bonsai, the following are the best options:

• Cotoneaster Compacta Nana
• Cotoneaster Congestus
• Cotoneaster Horizontalis
• Cotoneaster Microphyllus

Care

• Make sure the Cotoneaster is placed where it will get good sunlight, although it will need occasional shade
• Provide shelter from frost
• During the summer, you will need to water often and less in the fall and winter
• When in the growing season, use a good fertilizer, but avoid fertilizing when flowers and fruit are growing
• Since the Cotoneaster handles being pruned quite well, you want to keep the new shoots trimmed back when in the growing season and then in the spring, cut back old growth
• Any wiring should be done during the growing season and in the spring

English Buxus
Being a member of the evergreen shrub family, the English Buxus is just one of about 70 different species. In their normal habitat of Asian, Africa, Central America, and Europe, this plant will grow in woodlands to hilly, rocky mountainsides.

The leaves are extremely small, making this a great plant choice for Bonsai. Then, during the spring, the English Buxus produces male flowers, which have beautiful, yellow anthers, surrounded by clusters of female flowers.

While you could consider a number of the 70 species for Bonsai, the two most commonly used include the Buxus sempervirens, also called Common Box, and Buxus microphylla, known as the Japanese Box. On the exterior, these two species seem very much alike.

For example, they both have small, dark leaves. However, they are different in that the sempervirens can grow quite tall and they spread well whereas the microphylla grows very slowly and is much shorter. You can grow this Bonsai in shade or sun but if the plant receives too much sun, the leaves will scorch.

When it comes to the cold, winter months and frost, they are both very hardy. You do however want to provide good protection from the frost, once the temperatures dip below freezing. If you notice the leaves turning a bronze color in the winter, do not panic since this is normal.

Many Bonsai growers love the English Buxus since they can be cultivated indoors very easily. If you decide to grow your Bonsai inside, just make sure it is kept in a room without heat, or even a screened in porch.

To train this plant for Bonsai, you will need to keep up on the trimming, especially when growing. Typically, this plant is stiff, with a very angular appearance. As you prune and trim, you will notice, the English Buxus softens and becomes easier to work with.

Care

• The English Buxus will need to be fed about every two weekswhen in the growing period
• In the springtime, you want to repot about every two to three years, using good, basic soil organic preferably
• Provide this Bonsai plenty of sunlight and air circulation, which helps fight off fungal disease

Concern

• During months when temperatures are hot, you will find that the English Buxus often has a problem with red, spider mites
• Box plans in general are often infected with fungal diseases. Take the Box Blight fungus for example. This new disease is still being research but spreads very quickly, killing the leaves, stems, and small branches. You will begin to notice black streaks that will show up on the bark and then turn to a gray colored fungus. Within just a few months, if not treated, this fungus will spread throughout the plant, killing it. Therefore, you will need to use a quality fungicide if you notice any problem with fungus whatsoever.

Flowering Quince
If you want a gorgeous plant to grow for Bonsai, the Flowering Quince is it. During the late winter months, the plant will produce magnificent white, pink, or red flowers, all intertwined on bare branches.

This plant originates in China, Korea, and Japan, and is a very adapting type plant. The branches are tough but with a springy quality. In most cases, the branches will be covered with thorns on quick-growing shoots.

While the leaves are actually quite simplistic, they do have very fine teeth. In addition to the beautiful clusters of flowers, the yellow/green, waxy fruit that grows in the summer has a wonderful, perfumed fragrance.

Care

• This particular Bonsai loves sunlight but should not become overheated
• Make sure the soil is well drained and rich with nutrients
• You want to keep the Flowering Quinces well watered
• The great thing about using this plant as a Bonsai is that it can be trained without much difficulty and looks great in a variety of styles
• Bushy growth can be encouraged by cutting back the older branches
• Pruning should be done in the late spring
• Propagates fairly well by layering or cutting

Bonsai Gardening Secrets

Top Bonsai Choices 3

Bonsai Gardening Secrets
Top Bonsai Choices

Zelkova
Two species of the Zelkova, the Japanese Zelkova and Elm Zelkova originate in western Asia where the climates are cool. This outdoor Bonsai is deciduous and has leaves that look much like those grown on the American Elm or English Elm, although the Zelkova is smaller. Additionally, even though the Zelkova is related to Elms, they are not subject to the same diseases.

Many Bonsai enthusiasts swear that this is by far the best deciduous tree available. You will find that in the wintertime, green colored flowers bloom that has a subtle sweet fragrance. Then in the fall, the leaves change to beautiful shades of gold and bronze. The trunk of the Zelkova is straight, covered with smooth bark that will turn from green to gray as the tree matures.

Care

• Zelkova do require soil that is fertile and well drained
• In early spring, early Zelkova will need to be repotted while the mature Bonsai about every two years
• While this Bonsai is very hardy, the branches tend to be fragile and thin. Therefore, you need to use extreme care when wiring.
• This plant does quite well with the broom style training
• Zelkova does fairly well with frost but you should provide some type of protection
• In the summer, the Zelkova requires plenty of water and full sun
• Take care not to over water but also do not allow the plant to dry out completely

Camellia
Considered an evergreen shrub, the Camellia has unusual leaves that are glossy and large. Many Bonsai growers love this particular plant and with more than 250 species from which to choose, you know you will find one that appeals to you.

The most common species used for Bonsai include the Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, and Camellia reticulate. The sasanqua is the most popular in that it is compact and easy to train.

Care

• Camellia are sensitive to frost and will require some type of shelter
• While they can tolerate a small amount of direct sun, this plant prefers partial shade
• Throughout the growing season, you will need to feed an ericaceous feed
• During the spring, this plant will need to be repotted about every two years
• Make sure you use a lime-free soil
• In the wintertime, you can hard prune the Camellia and then once the flowering season has ended, trim in the shape you prefer
• Ground or air layering can be done in the spring
• Then from late summer to late winter, the roots should be cut

Caution

• This particular Bonsai is susceptible to scale and aphids
• The Camellia is also susceptible to sooty mold and other virustype diseases that can damage the flowers

Cedar Elm
Typically found in the United States, particularly from New Mexico to Tennessee, this plant makes a great choice for Bonsai. Because it is an elm, the tree can tolerate neglect, although it is not a good idea. While the Cedar Elm will do quite well in a number of zones, for the most success, you should live between zones 7 and 9.

The rough, fissured bark is one of the features making this a desired species for Bonsai. They can be found at nurseries, gardening centers, or on the internet but also found in the wild. The trunk and branches have an aged look that is perfect for Bonsai.

You can ramify the branches simply by pinching the shoots and leaves on a regular basis. If you were just getting started in growing Bonsai, the Cedar Elm would be an ideal choice. This tree does quite well in most soils but the best type is organic soil that is 50% organic and 50% Haydite. Another good choice is soil 60% akadama and 40% grit. The key
is to ensure the soil has a balanced pH level.

With Cedar Elms you need to be careful with the water in that they do not do well if too wet. Since they grow naturally in regions that are hot and arid, they will do best if kept more on the dry side. Additionally, with Elm sand other trees, they do require more water during the springtime than any other time of the year.

You can keep this Bonsai in full or partial sun but if they are exposed to too much sun, the leaves will rotate so the edges are up. If you notice this happening, then you know you need to cut back on the direct sun. Typically, a few days in the shade and the problem will be corrected. Too much sun also causes the leaves to turn yellow.

Care

• During the winter, the Cedar Elm will require protection from the elements, especially if temperatures dip to 20 degrees or less
• You might find in the winter that the branches and twig die and drop off
• Fertilize during the spring once leaves have grown, then in the late summer and early fall
• With the Cedar Elm, they naturally stop growing during the summer. Therefore, you will not want to fertilize at this time.
• You can use chemical fertilizers but organic is best
• To ramify, new growth should be pinched back to two leaves

Caution

• Since the Cedar Elm heals very slow in the spring and early summer, do not prune at this time
• Although wiring is easy on this tree, you do want to be careful around branches and shoots, as they swell easily
• Unfortunately, the Cedar Elm is very picky about repotting so only repot in the spring and use the highest quality soil
• Although Cedar Elm has very few problems with pests in their natural habitat, they do tend to have issues with the caterpillar, which will destroy the foliage.

Chinese Elm
The Chinese Elm is native to the eastern portion of Asia, growing in its natural habitat up to 60 feet tall. The bark of this tree is a dark gray, mottled with cream and reddish brown. Grown both indoors and outdoors, the Chinese Elm will stay as a semi-evergreen when grown inside but then deciduous when outdoors.

The leaves are a deep green that feel thick and leathery. However, on the top, they are shiny and smooth, with very small, blunt teeth. During the fall, the Chinese Elm produces fruit.

If you want a good plant to grow for Bonsai, this would be ideal, especially for beginners. Since this particular tree has a nice, predictable growth pattern, and heals well when pruned, it is easy to grow and care for.

Care

• During the cold winter months, the Chinese Else needs good protection from the elements but is still very hardy
• In the early spring, you will need to prune this Elm after the growth season has ended. Just be sure you leave two nodes on closest to the main branch or trunk.
• This particular Bonsai will need to be watered on a regular basis, making sure the soil is always moist but never over watered or dry
• About every two years, you will want to repot this tree during the early spring months. The key however, is the report one month before or after you have done the pruning, which will provide the least amount of shock to the Bonsai.
• The Chinese Elm is strong and relatively resistant to the dreaded Dutch Elm disease.
• This versatile tree has a cork-like bark, giving it beautiful character for Bonsai. Just be sure the tree is given good shade during the summer months.

Bonsai Gardening Secrets

Top Bonsai Choices 2

Bonsai Gardening Secrets
Top Bonsai Choices

Ficus
The Ficus is also known as the Rainforest Fig, which makes a great choice for Bonsai. Although figs are primarily tropical plants growing in the jungles of Asia, hundreds of species exist that can be grown outside of this type of environment.

The leaves of the Ficus are unusual in that very small flowersare encased in the fruit that develops, which then is born in the axils of the leaf. While the development of fruit is not common, the Ficusstill makes a good option for Bonsai.

For the best results, you need to provide this plant with lots of sunlight although it also does well in partial shade. The soil should be rich in humus, moist, and well drained. Since the Ficus does not do well in harsh conditions, you need to bring it indoors when the weather turns too hot and shield it from cold wind and frost.

Typically, the Ficus will produce aerial roots that come out of the branches and trunk. You can leave these roots if you like the look or remove them. Some Bonsai enthusiasts believe it takes away from the appearance but
others feel it enhances the plant’s natural beauty. Therefore, the decision is personal and completely your choice. When the roots first develop, they will be quite brittle. However, with the right nutrients and care, the roots will grow strong and hardy.

The size of the leaves on this Bonsai will vary in size from one-half to three-quarter of an inch, varying from one species to another. The nice thing about the Ficus is that it is very forgiving. In other words, if you forget to water it for days, it will do fine. If you aerial layer, you can propagate from the cuttings or seeds.

Care

• Make sure you do not over water or the roots will rot
• This particular plant will need to be pruned throughout the year, cutting back to three leaves
• Since the leaves tend to be large, you can help reduce their size by defoliating at the end of the summer. Just be sure the growing tip or sheath is removed. Then, the larger leaves can be thinned in the spring.
• If you live outside of a tropical climate, keep the Ficus under fluorescent lights inside in the winter
• While this plant will tolerate low levels of light, it does need some
• The Ficus needs to be protected from draught and frost and should never be exposed to temperatures lower than 59 degrees
• Do not subject this plant to sudden changes in temperature
• Between watering, allow the soil to dry
• To maintain humidity levels, mist the plant several times per week

Satsuki Azalea
This particular plant is very commonly used for Bonsai. With many varieties, this plant is very hardy and has gorgeous flowers up to seven inches in diameter. Considered a shrub, the bright flowers are produced in the spring. You will also enjoy beautiful blooms during the midwinter.

The Azalea is perfect for Bonsai in that they can be trained in any style. With a defined trunk, they can be trained to look like a tree without much effort. Again, while you could choose any style, the most common choices by Bonsai enthusiasts include Multiple Trunk, Raft, Root over Rock, Tree on Rock, Semi-Cascade, Slanting, Informal Upright, and Windswept.

Care

• With Azaleas, you will need to deadhead the flowers as well asthe leaves quickly
• Any new growth will also need to be removed once the blooming season is over
• Secondary shoots need to be pruned light in midsummer and heavier in the fall
• The best soil option is one without lime. Since the Azaleas fall within the Rhododendron family, they all need acid soil.
• The Azalea will do best when placed in partial shade
• Always protect this type of Bonsai from hard rains and frost, especially when in bloom

Japanese Maple
Of all the maples used for Bonsai, the Japanese Maple is the most popular. For one, this tree is small, making it great for training. Additionally, the appearance is beautiful. You will find the foliage to be delicate, fern like, and in the fall, the colors are brilliant, ranging from deep red to a rich, elegant gold.




Care

• The Japanese Maple needs partial shade during the summer months and then full sun the remainder of the year
• You will also need to ensure this tree is not placed in the path of direct wind
• During the springtime, any unwanted shoots will need to be removed
• Any shoots with five nodes or more should be removed, leaving approximately one-half inch for die back.
• Every winter to early spring, you will need to repot and fertilize
• The Japanese Maple requires plenty of water without allowing the plant to dry out in between watering, which can cause the leaves to burn or become over watered causing the roots to rot

Caution

• While the Japanese Maple can tolerate changes during the wintertime better than other maples can, they will still need proper shelter and shade to ensure the leaves do not shrivel up and die
• Drying winds can cause significant damage to this type of Bonsai, causing the leaves to become burned and die

Trident Maple
While the Trident Maple is similar to the Japanese Maple, this tree is deciduous. The foliage produces rich and vibrant colors, making it a favorite of many Bonsai growers. The Trident Maple will often form a bush top that has a strong, thick trunk. The bark of the trunk is a light brown that is spotted with small leaves, typically three short lobes
together.

The nice thing about the Trident Maple is that it will mature quickly and the branches are nice and refined. Best of all, you can train this tree in just about any style with the exception of the Broom style.

Care

• The Trident Maple needs to have partial shade during the summer and then full shade the rest of the year
• Make sure this Bonsai is out of direct wind
• Never allow this tree to dry out completely
• You will need repot this Bonsai each springs as the time when the buds begin to swell
• Be sure to feed this Bonsai on a weekly basis during the spring and then nightly until late summer

Caution

• The Trident Maple is intolerant to poor soil and exposed positions
• Never use free draining soil mix

Bonsai Gardening Secrets

Top Bonsai Choices

Bonsai Gardening Secrets
TOP BONSAI CHOICES

When you first get started in the world of Bonsai, you will probably feel a bit overwhelmed with the choices you have. Literally, hundreds of different trees are available that make excellent choices for Bonsai, all of them good options.

CHOOSING YOUR TREE
To help you through the process of choosing the right tree for your Bonsai, we have gathered information on the top choices. Now keep in mind that you can obviously choose whatever you like but the following trees have been proven time after time to be perfect for Bonsai. They have the characteristics needed, are trainable, beautiful, and hardy. Therefore, if you are just getting started, you might at least consider one or more of these recommendations.

Dwarf Pomegranate
The Dwarf Pomegranate is an extremely popular choice for Bonsai. In addition to fulfilling all the requirements for being a great Bonsai, this particular tree also produces wonderful flowers and fruit.

The Dwarf Pomegranate is very much like your traditional Pomegranate with the exception of size. The leaves tend to be thinner and the flowers and fruits smaller. The flowers have a trumpet shape that is stunning yellow/orange. Additionally, the trunk of the Dwarf Pomegranate twists, which is what make this such a favorite choice for Bonsai.

If you think about it, growing Bonsai involves significant effort in training the trunk and limbs to twist and turn. With the Dwarf Pomegranate, the gnarling comes naturally, which means training is a breeze. This ancient look is something most Bonsai growers look for and with this tree; you get it without any effort.

The leaves are dark green with subtle shades of bronze. This further enhances the rich look of the Bonsai. Once the Dwarf Pomegranate has bloomed, the fruit is produced, which looks like small red balls the size of golf balls.

If you want an informal style of Bonsai, one that would fit well into the Cascade, Root over Rock, Forest, Literati, or Informal Upright categories, then the Dwarf Pomegranate would be perfect. This particular tree handles hot very well and loves the sun.

Care

• Dwarf Pomegranate can be propagated easily. Therefore, if you want group plantings, you can get them by taking thickbranches from the parent tree.
• Pomegranates need to be kept damp at all times
• To encourage flowering shoots, you can keep this tree in shade and a little on the dry side prior to mid-season
• You do want to keep the Dwarf Pomegranate where it can receive good light
• Always place the Bonsai so it has adequate shelter from warm, drying winds or frost

Caution

• Do not plant the Dwarf Pomegranate in a pot that is then placed in a shallow container or dish
• To encourage flowering, keep this Bonsai well watered and choose a deeper pot when developing its root system
• The Dwarf Pomegranate does not handle cold weather well and will not tolerate frost
• If you live in a region where extreme heat or cold are common, then you might considering growing this Bonsai in a greenhouse
• The branches tend to break easily so extra care needs to be taken when wiring

Serissa
The Serissa species comes from a massive family consisting of up to 5,000 species. The plant has a shrub like appearance with thick leaves that are oval in shape, dark green, and about 18 inches tall. When the leaves become bruised, they produce an unpleasant odor.

Most people will choose the Serissa because it has a neat, polished look with dense branch coverage and flowers that bloom for long amount of time. The trunk of the Serissa is gray in color and very rouge. As the Bonsai ages, the trunk will begin to change shades of gray,
becoming lighter and lighter.

With blooms all year long, primarily from spring to fall, this makes an excellent choice if you were looking for color. The flowers are shaped like a funnel and almost completely white. You can find species that develop double flowers and if you want color other than white, you will find a number of options in this family such as the Pink Snow Rose, which produces leaves that are off-white with soft, pink flowers.

Care

• This particular plant should only be used for indoor Bonsai. Additionally, the Serissa requires a lot of light and needs to be placed where it can get plenty of air and temperatures ranging from 55 to 65 degrees. However, you want to make sure the Bonsai does not sit in front of any drafts and if you want to give it some outdoor time in the summer, just make sure you set it under shade.
• The best time to prune the Serissa is after the flowers have gone through the final blooming and new shoots have several nodes developed. To ensure you have healthy re-growth for the next season, you do want to leave about five leaves.
• Then about every other year during the springtime, you will need to repot the Bonsai and prune the roots.
• This Bonsai will require plenty of water and often
• Choose only organic fertilizers that are slow yielding
• This plant is easy to propagate simply by taking small branchesin the spring and replanting them in a heated box kept under glass

Caution

• The only drawback of the Serissa is that when you prune and repot, you will probably get a whiff of an unpleasant odor

Bonsai Gardening Secrets

Pests And Disease

Bonsai Gardening Secrets

Pests And Disease

Like any other plant or tree, Bonsai will be susceptible to pests. If caught early andtaken care of properly, you can save your treasured tree.

SPIDER MITES
The number one pest enemy of Bonsai is spider mites. The best way to get a handle on this problem immediately is to monitor your Bonsai on a regular basis. In fact, you should get into the habit of preventing these pests in the first place, although that is often not as easy as it sounds. First, you need to use a low toxic level of pesticide, whether chemical or organic, as soon as you see signs of spider mites.

Identification
The most visible of the spider mites are the red variety. You will actually see them crawling around on the leaves as very tiny red specks. Although small, they can be seen. If you were unsure, take a white piece of paper and while holding it under one of the suspect leaves, gently tap the leave so a few drop to the paper. This will make them much easier to identify.

You might also notice a small web like material that resembles some type of debris on the underside of the leaves or tiny pearls that are actually eggs. Other mites could be translucent with two dark spots on the back. No matter which type of spider mite you have, always check on the underneath portion of the leaves. If the plants are really badly infected, the leaves will be yellow with red mottling.

If you still cannot see the mites make sure your Bonsai has them, you can use a magnifying glass. Although spider mites are not considered an aggressive mover, meaning they will generally stay on one leaf or nearby leaves, the can be moved by birds, animal hair, and even clothing. Typically, spider mites are much worse when the weather is dry and dusty
although they can attack in any condition.

You need to learn if your particular Bonsai is a type of plant enjoyed by spider mites and then if you find your Bonsai has them, isolate the plant so they are away from uninfected plants. Many species are susceptible, particularly Junipers, Boxwood, Apples, and Blackberries.

In most cases, spider mites will be the worst in the springtime, peaking in the latter summer months. Then when the weather begins to cool down, they will multiple but at a much slower pace. The lifecycle of spider mites

is anywhere from seven to 10 days, laying eggs throughout. Any treatment should be repeated over the course of one week to ensure the adults and any hatchlings have been killed. When you do spray, make sure the bottom of the leaves is focused on most. However, you do need to treat the entire Bonsai. If you have the time, you can grow or buy predator mites, which although very expensive, they do help.

FUNGUS
As touched on earlier, fungal infections are something else you need to watch for when growing Bonsai. Try to use a fungicide that is organic first, turning only to chemical as a last resort. Additionally, you want to read any label scarefully.

Some products are not meant to work on the specific disease that you are trying to control. That means using it anyway and hoping it will help can sometimes cause damage to your prized Bonsai. You should also find a very small place on your Bonsai to test the product before treating the entire tree, just in case.

The best type of fungicide is one that is protecting. That means it is comprised of a shield that will protect your plants healthy tissue. If your Bonsai already is infected with a fungus, then you want to eradicate, which will help kill it. Then to protect uninfected portions of the Bonsai, you would use s systemic fungicide.

If the Bonsai’s root system has a fungus, it can usually be protected very effectively with Thiophanate methyl. Roots are obviously more difficult to treat. Therefore, you will need to apply the fungicide to the soil as a drench so it can then travel through the plant systematically. Another problem with roots is that because the soil stays moist, it is loaded with diverse microbes. Because of this, the fungicide will probably degrade quickly, meaning you will need to give more than one application.

The following are recommendations specifically for fungus and Bonsai:

• Leaf spots – Benomyl, Chlorothalonil, Mancozeb, Propiconazole, Triadimefon
• Powdery Mildew-Triadimefon
• Rust- Chlorothalonil, Mancozeb, Propiconazole
• Root Rot (water mold) – Fosetyl-A1, Metalaxyl
• Root Rot (fungi) – Methyl, Thiophanate
• Seed Treatment - Captan



Bonsai Gardening Secrets

Bonsai Feeding

Bonsai Gardening Secrets
Maintaining A Healthy Bonsai

Bonsai Feeding
A strong and healthy Bonsai needs to be fed on a regular basis. The key here is feeding the tree at the right time, and using the right fertilizer. The goal of the fertilizer is to replenish minerals and nutrients that can be washed away naturally during rain or when the Bonsai is watered.

Although fertilizer is available in a multitude of forms, one that many people like is the pellets. The benefit is that this type of fertilizer is slow releasing, so the Bonsai is fed over a period of weeks, safely. Another option, although not aspopular with Bonsai growers is the soluble powder and liquid.

These food types work very well and fast but work over a shorter amount of time. To use the powder or liquid, you would mix them with water according to the directions and then sprinkler over the Bonsai.

Bonsai Pruning
As mentioned in other sections, to maintain the shape of your Bonsai and refine new growth, pruning is crucial. In fact, with proper pruning, you will actually encourage new growth. Some
plants used for Bonsai respond very well to pruning naturally, while others simply do not recover no matter what you do. The most important thing to remember when pruning is that you need to know the type of tree you are dealing with. Otherwise, you could actually damage the tree.

The best time to prune depends if growth is new or old. For instance, new growth should be pruned during the growing season, which will help maintain the shape. On the other hand, old growth should be pruned during mid-fall. As you will see below, there are several different ways to prune Bonsai.

Finger Pruning
This method of pruning is very popular, working exceptionally well for cedars and junipers. To finger prune your Bonsai, you would pinch backany new growth, making sure it does not interfere with the overall shape of the Bonsai, or at the top where bush foliage would be encouraged.

To accomplish the pruning, you want to hold then new growth between your forefinger and thumb and then with the branch being held in the other hand, twist. The reason this method is better than using scissors isthat the leaves and foliage do not turn brown and they look more natural.

Keep in mind that if you have a cotoneaster, Chinese elm, or maple, then you would want to use scissors. If you have aggressive growth, then you want to trim back the shoots, just after the next series of leaves. In this case, the foliage would not be cut back as much.

Leaf Pruning
This method is also known as defoliation when used for Bonsai, and is the best option when growing maples or Ficus. The goal with leaf pruning is to remove leaves that are unsightly, as well as to speed the growth up. With leaf pruning, it would be done in mid-summer. Approximately 70% to 90% of the leaves are removed, keeping just enough so the tree
maintains its energy.

The key is to use fine scissors for removing the leaves, cutting them just behind the leaf. The important thing with leaf pruning is that in about two weeks, you need to make sure the plants are comfortable in their environment, are in a friendly position, have good fertilizer, and are properly watered. The important thing to remember with leaf pruning is that only certain Bonsai plants would use this method.

Wiring
To achieve the desired Bonsai shape, not all plants need to be wired. Take the Fukien Tea plant, which can be trained easily and without the use of wire. However, many other plant
species need this added support and encouragement to grow the right way.

One misconception about wiring Bonsai is that it is done to keep the plant small. In truth, wiring is simply a means of holding the branches in the position you want so the tree will train to a specific shape. If you do use wire, make sure you check it carefully so that the tree does not sustain any damage.

The goal when wiring the Bonsai is to copy the natural curves. The branches you want to wire are those that will likely break under pressure. In this case, the wire would be twisted around the branch for training purpose. As you shop for wiring, you will discover two types – aluminum and copper. Both are inexpensive, easy to find, and look fine. However, the copper option is a little more difficult to work with, especially if you have never done this before.

It is crucial that you take your time and do the wiring properly because if done wrong, the Bonsai can be damaged beyond repair. You will also find both aluminum and copper wiring in various densities, depending on the size of branch you need to train and how stubborn the tree species.

Your best bet is to purchase the wire in a number of lengths so you can determine which is best for your Bonsai. Remember, if you mess up, you can always remove the wire and start again. To give you an idea of what you would buy, if you are training very thin branches, 3.5-gauge wire would be perfect.

The best and safest way to wire your Bonsai is to clench the branches with both hands, and then slowly and carefully, apply the wire, wrapping it around the branches. Be very careful during this process to make sure the trunk does not experience any damage. The easiest way is to wire the branch first, bending it in the desired shape.

To ensure the branch does not become re-trained, anchor the wire for security. All you need to do is dig down into the soil, placing the wire going up the trunk so it reaches the branch that you want to train. On occasion, using the larger gauge wire is difficult. To get past this, you can use a thinner gauge wire and double it.

The day before wiring your Bonsai, you want to avoid watering the plant. Additionally, the Bonsai will do much better if you keep it in shade for approximately two to three weeks after you have finished wiring it. Then to ensure the bark is not being cut into, you want to check the Bonsai every day for several weeks.

In fact, during the spring and summer, the risk of damage is increased. Sadly, when damage does occur, it is often irreversible. Depending on the degree of damage, it can take years to grow out. If you plan to use any type of deciduoustree for your Bonsai, remember that they are highly susceptible to wire damage. The reason is that this type of tree has many fast growth spurts.

Therefore, while the wire might be fine the first week, chances are it could be dangerous the second week.



Bonsai Gardening Secrets

Maintaining A Healthy Bonsai

Bonsai Gardening Secrets
Maintaining A Healthy Bonsai

After you have trained your Bonsai in the style of your choice, you cannot leave it to fend for itself. To keep their beautiful shape, Bonsai must be maintained. Although this is not difficult, it does require some general knowledge.

For instance, you will need to know where to place your Bonsai, how much to water and feed it, when, where, and how to prune, when and how to repot, techniques for wiring without damaging the Bonsai, and so on.

This chapter is dedicated to overall maintenance of your Bonsai, providing you with answers to these and many other important questions so that you have a beautiful tree and enjoy the process of keeping it that way.

BONSAI POSITIONING
Where you place, your Bonsai tree has a direct correlation in how well it will grow. For starters, the tree needs to be kept out of direct sunlight. Now, as discussed earlier, you can provide directly sunlight if it is in the early morning but not in the afternoon.

Additionally, if your tree is young, then you should keep it out of the sun altogether. Other things important in positioning your Bonsai include its location to air. Good circulation and relative humidity are crucial. Although strong, direct wind is not necessarily a good idea, positioning your tree where it has ample fresh air and can receive a nice breeze is perfect.

Another consideration that is often overlooked is the position in how it relates to accessibility. Keep in mind that you will need to water, feed, prune, and fertilize your Bonsai so you need it to be positioned where you can get to it with ease.

The last thing you want is to be reaching over or around your tree to do the simple things. One thing interesting about Bonsai is they will tell you if they like or dislike the place where you have put them. For example, if you notice burnt foliage, discoloration, or wilting, then you know the plant is stressed and unhappy with its position.

The best way to make your choice is consider the species natural growing habitat and then try to immolate it. For instance, some tree species naturally grow in partial shade with just moments throughout the day of indirect sunlight. By positioning your Bonsai in a similar environment, it will do much better than if you were trying to go against its natural preference.

GROWING AND DISPLAYING INDOORS
When it comes to Bonsai, there are two groups of plants. The first are those species designed to be grown and displayed indoors while the other group is strictly for outdoors.

For the outdoor Bonsai, many growers bring their trees indoors where they are put on display for special occasions but then afterward, they need to go back outside. A good rule to follow is that three days a month indoors is all your Bonsai, regardless of species, will handle.

For the outdoor Bonsai, they simply cannot and should not be grown inside. Bringing them in during the flowering season or to celebrate a party, is fine but if they are kept indoors too long, they will actually become stressed. If you do bring the Bonsai inside, remember that you will need to take extra care when it comes to watering, sunlight, humidity, and so on.

Providing the Bonsai with a daily misting will help, as will positioning the tree so it is not somewhere too warm. For example, if you bring your Bonsai inside during the wintertime, make sure it is not placed too close to a heater. Keep in mind that if the Bonsai need to be kept warm, you can purchase a special heater that will not dry the tree out but you would also need to use a humidifier.

Additionally, once you put the Bonsai in its position, try to leave it alone as much as possible. The more you start to touch and mess with the Bonsai, the more stressed it will be.

APPROPRIATE WATERING
For growing Bonsai, watering is a very important aspect. You need to find the perfect balance between moist, but not wet or dry. Unfortunately, trees are often subjected to harsh winds and/or excessive heat, which can dry the Bonsai out. Another problem is too much water, which can make the tree mold or mildew, or rot.

If your Bonsai is one of the outdoor species, then the only time you need to be cautious is when the weather turns hot and dry, or when there is an abundance of rain. During normal summer months, you should water your Bonsai about twice a week, and if the days are extra hot, move the trees to shade.

Some people will use a drip or mist sprinkler system that waters the Bonsai without getting them too wet. If you live in a region that is prone to long, dry spells, then using something as simple as a water sprayer will help increase the humidity level.


If you are unsure if you are providing your Bonsai enough water, you can always lift the pot and feel the weight. Amazingly, once you become accustomed to the pots you use, you can generally tell how much moisture is in the soil simply by feel. Considering that the water accountsfor about 25% of the overall weight, this is not difficult to do.

Another method is to keep a set of wooden chopsticks on hand. If you think the soil is dry, you can poke the chopsticks down into the soil. If they come out dry, then you need to water your Bonsai.

However, if you notice moisture on the chopsticks, then you are still good.

One of the most important things you can do is learn the water patterns of your specific plant or tree. Since each has different drying times, this will help you determine the right amount of watering and the best schedule. While quick drying and frequent watering is exceptionally good for Bonsai, you do want to make sure you do not over water, which could cause root
rot.

Other factors play into the drying time, such as:

• Soil Mixture – Fine mediums such as clay, peat moss, and vermiculite all hold a lot of water whereas other types of soil do not. If you find that your soil is drying out too soon, you can add some of these elements to help.
• Plant Size – This too will affect the soil. For example, if you have a Bonsai that is a leafy type of plant or tree, then it will consume more water than a smaller leafed species. Additionally, root colonized or root bound plants and trees will require more water.
• Pruning – Since pruning helps the plant or tree grow, more water will be required during the pruning times.
• Fertilizer – Since fertilizers will encourage some plants and trees to grow very fast, they could also speed up the drying time. Additionally, if you have organic matter or decomposition in the soil, then you might experience premature soil collapse, which would increase the overall drying time.
• Disease – One of the most common problems with watering isagain, too much, which then causes root rot. Additionally, you will find several diseases that can actually cause blockage to the vascular system. When this happens, water cannot be absorbed properly. Therefore, you need to watch for problems, which might present as wilting leaves. At this point, allow the Bonsai to dry out completely before watering again. If the soil is dry but the leavesare still wilted, your Bonsai could have a fungal infection.
• Wind and Temperature – These too can cause your Bonsai to dry out too quickly. If your plant or tree is exposed to one or both, you will need to keep a close eye on the water content of the soil.
• Sunlight – What happens here is that sunlight will heat up the plant and/or the pot in which it is planted, causing moisture to evaporate.
• Humidity – When it becomes humid, the water will typically last longer. In this case, if you live in a region with high humidity, make sure you do not over water. A daily misting might be best, especially if the temperatures climb.
• Size of the Pot – Obviously, a larger pot would hold more water while a smaller pot would hold less.

Bonsai Gardening Secrets